Concourse Entry Door guts

[dougm]

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[dougm]

Surprisingly there is absolutely no rust inside this door, just lots of greasy mess for some reason. I can only assume the previous owner maybe shot WD40 or some other grease into the door latch at some point or something. But check out that brand new TriMark deadbolt lock unit..

[chin_k]

Doug, what is the pistol thing in the second picture? It looks like some kind of actuator for open and close the door remotely, but I don't think I heard of such a feature. The electrical thing is a switch for the electric step, correct?

[Blue~Go]

I think the later doors did have some sort of built in "door holder opener" -- so that was my guess too.

I have the vertical tang on the side of the rear step that catches a prong on the bottom edge of the door - maybe that's what you have?

Dougm: I think it's time to re-bed my Tri-Mark unit, but in looking at various instructions online, I'm a bit flummoxed about just what I do and don't need to "undo." I want to take the unit off the door so I can re-bed it (new butyl). Other than that it is working fine. Thanks for any light you can shed.

[dougm]

This is the Door Check Assembly (thats what the tag on the side of it is labeled) It has two springs and two rollers inside, each spring and roller have a bolt above them for tension adjustment. Those rollers are forced against both sides of that long flat rod that goes threw the middle,the middle of that flat rod is a ramp on both sides, when the door opens the rollers are forced down the ramp and hence it takes a bit of force to shut the door in order to overcome the resistance of those rollers going back up the ramp. In otherwords its purpose is to prevent the door from slamming shut if say a gust of wind comes up ect.... but my experience is that its not real effective.

DSC01227.jpg

[dougm]

This guy is the electric door lock solenoid. When i turn the ignition on the entry door deadbolt automatically locks, .when i shut the key off the deadbolt unlocks, when you lock and shut the cab doors it also locks the rear. Im certain its supposed to have a remote entry key fob, but i didnt get one when i bought the truck. However i can still lock and unlock it manually as well. I guess i figured it was a standard feature on the Chinooks.

DSC01224.jpg

It saves a person from having to go back and lock the rear door seperately when you get out of the truck.

[dougm]

Blu, i can only share specifics on how mine is setup. For purposes of making it understandable we will refer to the outside portion of the Trimark as the "KEY" side and we will refer to the inside handle portion of the TriMark as the "HANDLE" side.

There is a short threaded rod attached to a lever on the back of the HANDLE side, that threaded rod sticks towards and threw a lever on the latch mechanism on the side edge of the door. Take the 3 screws out of the HANDLE side, wiggle the HANDLE side until it moves, pull the KEY side out just far enough to allow the HANDLE side to rotate. Rotate it counter clockwise about 90 degrees and push it towards the latch mechanism, now look at the edge of the door where the latch is located, you will see a small round hole, if you look inside that hole you will see the threaded rod and a nut, you need to keep pushing the HANDLE side towards the latch until that threaded rod and nut poke out the hole far enough to get a socket on the nut.... remove the nut, then simply pull the HANDLE side back and out careful not to bend the threaded rod. (PS... The appropriate size socket will not fit in that little hole so dont waste your time, well unless you plan to simply drill the hole larger for the socket... LOL)

Now on the key side look at the lock solenoid where the rod engages in the end of it, on the bottom side of the little rod is a clip, remove that little clip and then lift the rod out of the solenoid, carefully pull the KEY side out and away from the door. ... WALA, FINISHED.

By the way, this TriMark unit came with a gasket to put under the outside key portion so i didnt put any goop on it. Maybe you can make a rubber gasket for yours versus using goop? I think it would work provided you didnt get carried away with the thickness of material.

[dougm]

CHIN, yes the electrical thing tells the step when to open, when the door opens it breaks the circuit so the system knows its supposed to deploy the step. It also supplies juice to that lock solenoid. The electrical thing is nothing more than something like this....

accelevision-dc3-brass-door-contact-switch-02.jpg

Its function is nothing more than complete the circuit when the door is shut, break the circuit when the door is open, nothing more. Obviously you dont want that solenoid getting power when the door is open because if it locks the latch with the door open and then you slam the door... it would make alot of noise but the door wouldnt shut...

[dougm]

The red wire is power for the lock solenoid, the corresponding black wire is ground for solenoid. The looped wire is your step circuit.

DSC01224.jpg

[Blue~Go]

Thanks for the explanation! I had read through various threads (elsewhere) and the instructions I could find but I still couldn't figure out what exactly to do -- or what NOT to do (many had to do with adjusting the lock but mine is fine in that way).

I don't have a solenoid (I lock mine by either pushing the lower lever down or locking the upper deadbolt with key (outside) or upper lever (inside)). But I do have that same model of Tri-mark (old style handle, like yours).

It's not at the very top of my list, but I will be getting to it sometime this winter, and I'll refer back (and maybe ask another question) then.

Thanks,
BG

PS: Once I get "in there" I'll see whether I want to make a gasket or simply bed it.