Chinook RV

I posted this on a different thread earlier: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1323&p=15827#p15827

I just got a Progressive Dynamics upgrade to replace the MagneTek 7345. Quick question. Instructions state the first thing to do is disconnect all power sources including the generator. (Obviously the generator won't be running) My question: Is flipping the circuit breaker on the generator sufficient or would it be necessary to disconnect the wires from the generator? What have the others here who have done this swap? May be a silly question but I really don't want to fry something.
Thank you!"

Figured it would be good to start a new thread.
Yesterday I went out to start the replacement hit a snag.
-Store switch in store mode (no light)
-AC was unplugged
-Generator not running
-Disconnected Negative battery cable on chassis battery
-Disconnected Negative battery cable on house batteries (just the one that leads out of the battery box)
Started hearing the tone from the overhead switch console area, assumed it was alarm for low voltage from the LVD.
Wondered where this was getting power to sound the alarm, remembered read a post from BobW9 about the LVD.
I hooked up the negative to the house batteries, it stopped beeping and I decided to come back read some more.
Done for the day.

Fast forward to today:
Determined I should disconnect the positive cables at the battery's as well. Seems odd because the circuit is already broken, but I'm no electronics expert so... and it seems harmless
After disconnecting the positives as well as the negatives I hear the "Smart Solenoid" under the hood cycling rapidly then pausing then cycling again and pausing several times until I decided to rehook-up everything and seek guidance from those who have already been down this road and ask if they had the same experience.

And again I'm wondering where this solenoid is getting it's power to cycle?

So I sit here scratching my head...

(And it already feels like Beer-O-Clock)

The solenoid is getting power from the house battery as well as the solar panel. When the batteries got disconnected, the solar panel at 18+V DC will cause it to cycle quickly. you can take out the fuse to stop that....

One side of the solenoid comes from the truck battery, so it will get power from there, even if house side is disconnected.

oh, yeah, if it is the model 1315, it does connects when either the house or the chassis battery is above the connection voltage. The 1314 ignores the chassis battery.

Mission accomplished!
Pulled fuses from the solar controller, had the house and chassis batteries disconnected, no beeping or clicking so I proceeded.
Went as well as I could expect. Tried to connect the battery wires without loosening the strain relief, (Clay must be a magician), removed the DC card, took off the strain relief nut and loosened to get about 5/8 inch more wire, it was plenty.
Have to thank all of you for this forum, it's a great resource for us, this job would have more trying without all your knowledge and help.
And Clay (caconcourse) I read your blog https://clayrushing.com/2017/01/21/chin ... -upgrades/ over several times, it helped me so much understand what to expect.
Thank You
The wires were wrapped with black tape at the strain relief, you can see how much wire was pulled through.