Propane not flowing

[68camaro]

Hey all, new gremlin popped up. Just recently my propane is not flowing consistantly to stove, furnance and probably refrig. It first happened several months ago when I was leaving camp, stove would not start due to no propane getting to it. After driving, I stopped tried again and it worked fine. Another time stove would light but flame would die out quickly.

Lastly, tried to use furnace last night and blowing air would not get warm, tried to use stove and no gas. Everthting looks good and it has propane. I finally shut off tank valve, reopened then tried stove and it lit right up, but flame died after 60 seconds, now won't restart and you cannot hear or small propane.

Does the tank have to be bled or is there another reason why propane not flowing? It has always worked flawlessly.

[68camaro]

I got propane moving perfectly by turning tank valve off/on again but I think regulator is shot since it does not appear to be a blockage.

[68camaro]

...and another update. It appears mine has a Marshall Integral Two Stage regulator, the only model number I find looks to be 605H, but Marshall does not show this on website. Closest to original is the Marshall MEGR-298, which is Horizontal. https://www.marshallexcelsior.com/compa ... egree-vent

I am sending pics to Marshall and hopefully they can confirm exact replacement parts model number. These are only 30 bucks and probably lose propane in tank but hopefully it works.

[chin_k]

Hopefully, it is just the regulator, and it does sound consistent. The propane tank needs to be emptied before the tech start working on it. If there is a valve before the regulator (I don't think so), you maybe able to get it done without emptying it. If it is due to rust or other particle, then you may want to make sure the tank is still in good shape. Some regulator have a screen in front of it, but I do not remember if the propane ones come with this feature.

[68camaro]

The Marshall MEGR-298 came in and was perfect fit, easily installed, just needed basic tools. To make it easier I took bottom protection plate off as it seriously needed new paint job. After a steel brush, drill wheel and primer plus paint looks like new. Decided to put on list to paint propane tank in warmer weather.

Stove and furnace fired up right away and I did notice that stove flame seemed stronger even on high. Last regulator worked but not consistently so this should be it.

[SMan]

Glad you got it fixed. We were in Utah a few weeks ago at 11 degrees. Our water pump froze as well. I would hate for the furnace not to have functioned.

[68camaro]

Glad you got it fixed. We were in Utah a few weeks ago at 11 degrees. Our water pump froze as well. I would hate for the furnace not to have functioned.

Bummer but thankfully the heat worked. I’ll be camping in upstate NY off Lake Ontario in Dec and having furnace not cooperating wasn’t a fun thought.

[SMan]

Glad you got it fixed. We were in Utah a few weeks ago at 11 degrees. Our water pump froze as well. I would hate for the furnace not to have functioned.

Bummer but thankfully the heat worked. I’ll be camping in upstate NY off Lake Ontario in Dec and having furnace not cooperating wasn’t a fun thought.

We learned to keep the water tank access down at night to let more heat in. I'm sure your water system will be winterized in December. Hope you have a great time!

[Scott]

We learned to keep the water tank access down at night to let more heat in.

Hey Steve,
Can you tell us more? I'd love to avoid antifreeze...

[SMan]

We learned to keep the water tank access down at night to let more heat in.

Hey Steve,
Can you tell us more? I'd love to avoid antifreeze...

Hi Scott.
We have traveled in the winter before but this trip the days were in the 40's and 50's but nights were getting in the teens. One night east of Salt Lake it hit 11 degrees. We heated with an electric heater when plugged in and the propane furnace when not. On the 11 degree night the water pump froze and would not function until it warmed up later. After that night we kept both the cabinet under the kitchen sink, the bathroom door, and the long door under the jacknife bed open to allow heat to circulate to all areas where pex piping and the water pump was. We had no further problem on the trip. I was comfortable traveling without antifreeze as long as the days warmed above freezing and heat was in the unit. We hit Arches, Bryce, Zion, Grand Canyon, Crater Lake, along with other places that were below freezing at night.

In looking at the design and routing of all water pipes and both water tanks they are confined to the drivers side where heat can circulate. For the short periods at night when it dipped below freezing I was willing to take the chance. The night the pump froze had me take a closer look at how we were heating these areas. It is always a gamble but I would do this again given the same temps and circumstances. We enjoyed having the convenience of the toilet for traveling.

Last January in contrast we traveled to Scottsdale for the Barrett Jackson auction and I winterized the pipes ( by blowing them out with air and drained the water tanks but did use the toilet carrying bottled water to flush. In a lifetime of RV use I have had only one broken pipe (in a Nomad travel trailer)

This was pretty long winded but I hope it made some sense. This is my approach and YMMV.
BTW we had a great trip and still a lot of fall colors in late October and November.