Hi Skillet,
As Manitou said, what you have there is the KII brand "simulator." This is what they call the hubcaps on a dually (I guess). I have the exact same ones. They are stainless steel, and the wheel beneath is steel. So, most of those lug nuts are fake (don't twist them!). Two of them (across from each other) will have a little crosswise dimple shaped a bit like a Twinkie near the base (hex) part. Those are the real ones. You remove those and then the simulator comes off and under that are the real lug nuts and the steel wheel.
I think that supposedly, you take the stainless cap off of the two "real" simulator nuts (there is a T-shaped tool you may have with a sort of socket on one end), and then remove the simulator nut that is under it. But, most everyone I have seen or talked to just (carefully) takes the stainless cap and the simulator nut together with a 1-1/16" socket.
There are a couple of different ways that the two (non-fake) simulator nuts connect to the actual lug nuts, but it's fairly obvious once the simulator is off. So, to recap:
1) Two of the stainless "lug nuts" on the stainless simulator (hubcap) are "real" and the rest are completely fake. Don't turn any of the fake ones or they can break right off (then it is new simulator time...).
2) The two "real" stainless simulator nuts have oblong ridges on them (near the base) and are roughly across from each other (the fake simulator nuts don't have the ridges). Those can be removed with a 1-1/6" socket (or you can take the chrome cap off, I think, and then the simulator nut, but I have done them together with the socket).
3) Once you get those two ridged nuts off, you can remove the simulator and then see what is on the outside of the real actual wheel lug nut (maybe something with a hex key hole) that the simulator hooks onto. I think these can vary by year.
4) Now you are down to the actual real steel Ford (nut and washer together) lug nuts. Finally! IIRC they are 7/8" (but double check on that).
I take the simulators off myself beforehand if going to a tire shop (and then put them back on after I get the rig back). I've read too many accounts of employees using the impact gun on the simulator nuts (the fake fake ones) and tearing them off. Plus it drives me NUTS when they lay the front ones down chrome side down, use them for lug nut "dishes" and then kick them along the floor (scraaaaatch).
PS: I ditched those aggravating valve stem extenders (ugh, ugh!) that came on the Chinook and instead had extended valve stems put on. These are one-piece brass tubes (hence extended stems vs. stem extenders), custom bent so that they come out where you can reach them (ahhhh) (on all SIX wheels). The ones I have are made by "Tireman," but I believe Borg makes similar ones. Checking and adding air is a joy in comparison to the original ones, and from what I have read, they are also much more reliable. I've had mine for just over a year and have no complaints. Hardly ever need to add air, but checking and adding air are both a breeze.
