oil change schedule

[Astrodokk]

I had that valve installed in my other MH actually by oil stop, and it made service much easier and faster.
Gonna call the dealer today and make an appointment.

[chin_k]

Yes, it just friction fit. It is silly, but I just want to keep the short nipple clean for no good reason.

[Blue~Go]

Yes, it just friction fit. It is silly, but I just want to keep the short nipple clean for no good reason.

Best reason ever But seriously, I know what you mean. If they make a cap, it should stay on. Now I have to go look, because I don't remember it. .... Okay, I see it now. I don't remember that existing when I got mine.

BTW, if anyone is interested, for the V-10 the model is F-106, then you add an S or N if you want either the short or long nipple. I see they come with a clip now (used to be optional).

There are some other options, but I'd say don't just assume they'd be better. My car was tricky to fit so I first thought that one of the "fancier" models might work better, but as it turned out nope, that would have aimed the oil flow in the wrong direction.

The F-106 does work well. Since this was my first Fumoto and I went on a friend's recommendation I have the flush one with no nipple. I would prefer the F-106N and may change it. I have the "N" model on my car and it's so much easier and tidier. (I wouldn't feel that way if it hung down in the way of brush or whatever, but it doesn't really do that on the V-10 oil pan.)

This link will take you to all the options:

http://fumotousa.com/results.php?make=1 ... y+6.8L+V10

BG

PS: One other nice benefit I meant to mention is that you can drain off a small amount of oil, which is not possible (at least not for me!) with a conventional oil plug. This can be handy if you sample your oil for testing, and/or if you (or a shop... ahem) accidentally overfills the oil level.

[Flame]

So Blue,We have very similar machines as you know.I now have about 50,000 mile on my "Land Shark" It is time for it's first oil change since I have owned it. I had a bad experience with synthetic oil in my 98 Dodge Magnum station wagon. It smoked and used oil like crazy until I got that stuff out of there. Actually went back to the rep. and he said"yea, we get that complaint on some vehicles"!!! I couldn't believe what I was hearing. Anyway, for mostly down south in warmer temps what oil would you are anyone recommend?? Also Blue, which model Fumoto valve are you using on yours? I would like to order one. Cost? Leaving Mid Feb. to drive down to the oversea hiway to Key West Florida.

[Blue~Go]

Hi Flame,

Some of this is going to be repeat, so bear with me:

I use Mobil 1 synthetic. At first I was using the better quality "regular" Mobil 1 (it's called energy saving or something like that, not to be confused with the black label cheaper one - sorry I'm fuzzy on details but at one time I looked this all up on their website). Either 5W20 or 5W30 can be run. Our engines "came" with the recommendation for 5W30 (that's what's in the manual), but later it was changed to say 5W20. I have heard various reasons on why (fuel mileage ratings, for one). I have run both but have settled on 5W30 since I tend to run more in hot or mild weather, and almost never in temps below freezing.

A while back, I switched from the regular Mobil 1 to the "extended life" version (not to be confused with the high mileage vehicle version). The extended life is rated for 15k between changes. I don't go that long, and still pretty much stick to the 5k changes (or sometimes even less mileage because I change at least once a year), but I like that if I'm on a trip and it goes a little above 5k I don't feel I have to run to some random Jiffy Lube in a random town (I like to do my own) or do a change myself in someplace awkward (campground where they frown on it). Just gives me a little flexibility when on trips.

I thought about changing to the Mobil 1 filters as well, but read a number of comments about them leaking at the gasket. So I stick with the Motorcraft filter.

The Fumoto valve I have is the F-106 (no nipple). This was the first Fumoto I ever had and I just went on someone's recommendation. If I were to change it (and I might), I'd go with the Fumoto F-106N. Difference being that the N has the long nipple. I have the N version on my car and it is SO EASY to change the oil without making any mess. You can practically do it in office attire. And you can direct the oil (via a short hose they supply) to a container with a small opening (water jug, large jug oil comes in, etc.) for disposal. This way I don't need to carry an oil change pan.

On some vehicles I would worry about the N version hanging down and catching stuff. But on the V-10 the plug is somewhat tucked up, and the nipple doesn't hang down anyway (it goes over on an angle).

They also make an F-106S which has a shorter nipple. Then you can put an elbow on it to accept the hose. But I'd choose the F-106N if doing it again, then use just the little hose (which is what I do on my car).

All the F-106 look like they now come with a clip to make sure they never open accidentally, but that used to be optional and neither of mine have it (because I bought them back in the day). I could buy one now to add if I wanted to. Once you operate it on purpose you'll see that it's not easy to "undo" (I mean it's not hard when you want to, but it's not like a blade of grass is going to open it). But if I buy a new one I'll add the clip, just because why not.

Maybe I wouldn't put one on an offroad Jeep, but I can't see taking my Chinook through anything that would rip off/open the Fumoto. So many other things to break off down there! Also, I have one on my car and I'll take that through MUCH more than my Chinook. So far, so good (100k). But it's a personal thing, and if it was going to cause me worry I wouldn't add one. A plug is a plug. I'm happy with it and would add it to any new vehicle (unless it had some arrangement that made the Fumoto "stick out," which the V10 doesn't (neither does my car).

Looks like you'd be under $30 for the whole shebang. Also looks like some places give you the clip with it, and maybe some sell it separately, so just check. I'd also get the hose (or buy a different hose - just have one).

The valve comes with a blue fiber crush washer. I think that's what's on my Chinook (I traded a friend installing the Fumoto for some work on his boat, so I didn't put it on) and it has never leaked. On my car the research said that maybe the car's original crush washer (but a new unused one of course) might fare better. The installation of the Fumoto on the car was tricky (had to use a crowfoot and swear a bit) so I wasn't taking any chances and used the original type metal crush washer. As I said, no problem on the Chinook plus install is easy so the stakes for choosing one or the other aren't as high.

[chin_k]

FWIW, I got the short nipple version of the valve (F-106S), because it does not extend pass where the oil pan bottom. The normal nipple is not going to stick down much either, but I just don't see the extra utility of the longer nipple (easier to snap the hose on), since the short one comes with an adapter anyway.

I did not find any original washer, so I used the one that came with the valve. I think the plug I removed was probably not the original one, but I kept it in the rig just in case I need something to plug the pan in emergency (I know, maybe once in a billion years?).

I won't wear any good clothing while changing oil, and I used an oil pan. I just can't figure out a way to remove the oil filter without making a mess yet. Maybe a well-dressed gentleman like Blue can give me some hint. No matter how long I waited, there seems to be always some left over oil that will spill out when I unscrew the filter.

[Blue~Go]

I kept the original plug, too. It's small and easy to store.

I was mostly kidding about the "office attire." I keep a Tyvek suit in the side compartment and wear it for all maintenance work (the hood is nice for working under the rig). But with my car (oil filter on top of engine, so nice), I literally don't spill a drop (so I *could* wear regular clothes. However, I hear you on the oil filter on the V10. It's hard to manage that without some oil. But what I do is something I learned from the boatyard: After slightly loosening the filter with the wrench, I take a 1-gallon zip-loc bag and run it up onto the oil filter (open side upward, toward the underside of the engine), then unscrew the filter "through the bag" and carefully lower it. It's still not as tidy as the top-of-engine filter though. But the actual oil draining is a breeze with the Fumoto (we need a Fumoto filter!)

So the real difference is that I go through one or two pairs of gloves and a dozen paper towels, vs. a (virtual) box of gloves and a roll of towels, a ruined Tyvek -- and maybe a tarp too Plus not needing the pan (I save the 5-quart jug from the previous oil change, and use that for the drain oil).

[chin_k]

I completely forget about the zip bag trick for the filter. Will try that next time.

Now, I saved my empty oil jug, but unless I put the rig on a jack, the oil pan still not high to drain into the jug with the opening pointing up. I still end up using an oil pan to hold most of the oil, and pour the oil into the jug after it is drained out. Any hint for me on that?

[Blue~Go]

I run the front wheels up on a few Lynx blocks. Gives me more room to crawl under and makes it so the oil jug will fit. (Chock the rear wheels.) If I'm on a slope I have the rig point downhill to start with so the hill plus the blocks don't make for a double slant (although that's probably not an issue for draining anyway, and of course you can make it flat again for the final dipstick top-off reading).

I've also used a 1-gallon water jug when I didn't have a used oil jug. It's lower. But you have to stop partway through and change jugs (which you can do with the Fumoto) as it's only 4 quarts capacity. Also they are lighter duty so you have to be careful not to puncture before you get to the oil recycler. All in all, the 5-quart oil jug is great (but the first time you don't have an empty oil jug; after that you can always save the prior one).

Another nice thing about the stock 5-quart oil jug is that (at least on my '99) one will fit upright in the driver's side outside locker just perfectly in that notch at the aft end.

[chin_k]

Every time when I changed the oil, it took more than 5 quart jug, and I have to use a one-quarter to top it off. If I park it like you did on a slope, I would need to use one empty quart bottle to drain some off the pan first, then close the valve, and then put the 5-Qt jug under the pan. Does the amount of oil sound about right to you? I hope I have not been adding more oil than what I suppose to.