Transmission temp high with front bike rack

[chin_k]

If you're doing it yourself then no problem keeping an eye on things

This is why I carry a mirror with me, to keep an eye on myself if I need to.

[Drake]

Hi, just wondering if you have a Scan Guage II recommendation, I just googled them and there are a lot of choices. Thanks Valerie 1998 Concourse

[Blue~Go]

I didn't know there were choices in the Scan Gauge II. Let me go have a look...

Here is a link to the tried and true Scan Gauge II. Of course you can also buy it other places.

https://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automo ... B000AAMY86

[chin_k]

They came up with new products. BTW, I don't know if it is with the $25 that they charge for he firmware upgrade for Scan Guage II. Latest version is version 4.22.

[Scott]

Ideally, you want to keep the coolant at room temperature at all time.

They let the temperature go up higher due to practicality and better efficiency for letting the engine running hot sooner. There is no need for the thermostat since they can just let the water pump do it job as soon as the engine starts, but that will take longer for your engine to get warm. So they put this thermostat there to help it warm up... There got to be a controller somewhere that tells the fan when to turn on/off, or a mechanical-electrical thermostat we have in our house.

The purpose of the fan is to let the automotive engineers cheat by getting a smaller radiator than needed. It save weight, and make the cost lower.

 

Weight? What about geometry and packaging and climate and load and duty, and 50 other things that you're not considering?

Posts like this are a disservice to the members of this forum. 

People come here, hopefully, for help and advice and information, and a lot of what you say is blatantly incorrect, or based upon empty speculation rather than facts or experience.

Cordially yours,

Scott 

[chin_k]

Scott, I understand your points, and I do view them as word of wisdom.

But in my point of view, I think I did not come across as an expert, and certainly never sounds like one. So I figured that when people read my posts, they view it as some anonymous person opinion, with no qualification whatsoever. It was not meant as an engineering white page, or a peer reviewed thesis. Everyone has a different style of posting, and I don't think I ever have any long post that is packed with info and extensive discussion of a particular topics.

I do understand the danger of my style in the age of disinformation, and I would love to hear if you or anyone point out mistake or misleading statements. I certainly will be ashamed if I am being disservice to anyone here, and I apologize if anything came across as empty speculation. I will appreciate it when you call me out. I certainly will feel bad if anyone got hurt or lost property due to any of my ill advice.

Now, just to have it in record, I admit that I am not a scientist who have a specialty in thermodynamics or an engineer with experience with thermal management in the automotive application, in case anyone thought otherwise. Can you explain what is the rationale that automotive engineer put a thermostat between the engine and the radiator, and keep it closed until the temperature is above a certain temperature? My explanation is that it's purpose is to let the engine warm up faster, which make it run more efficiently. Regarding the weight statement, all I was saying is that the fan enables a much smaller radiator, and thereby save weight. Otherwise, the one way to get rid of the heat is with larger radiator, with gallons and gallons of coolant, making the vehicle heavier, less aerodynamic, and more expensive to make. These are general statement, and I certainly would never get into detail discussion about the black body radiation, cooling effects, etc. I would like to tell me how these posts are disservice to other members, and I will keep my future posts in the Campfire section instead.

[markatherton]

Wow. Where is this going. I am just a dumb auto mechanic... My opinion is to move the bikes to the rear of the vehicle. The purpose of a cooling system is to keep the engine cool. Ford spent hundreds of thousands of money on engineers tasked to find the best way to keep your vehicle cool so you don't overheat your engine. I am pretty sure a bicycle or anything else in front of the radiator is not a good idea. Probably not what you want to hear but them is the facts. Mark in San Diego....auto mechanic.

[deppstein]

Mark...believe me-I get where you are coming from regarding my bikes mounted up front. Clearly not“ideal” to do anything to impede air flow through the grill. But none of the back mounting options work for me...closest is the swing-away rack—but even that feels too fussy for me. I want easier access to back door on regular basis. Hence all of my “futzing” to get the front-mount solution to work well enough...perhaps slightly hotter than otherwise would be the case, but still within comfortably acceptable range. As per all my previous posts on the subject, and now the radiator flush, I think I am there. We leave on Monday for a week of camping in VT. Should be hot enough and long enough run to confirm whether or not that goal has been achieved. Stay tuned.
David

[Palolojack]

I completed my Tru-Cool installation project, so I wanted to post some pics and give some tips to those tackling this on their own. One thing I am concerned about post-install is the heat soak from the trans cooler to the factory cold air intake above the radiator. The OEM trans cooler is small and has a slight air gap above it for fresh air to get to the ram intake, and the large Tru-Cool install closes that gap allowing the hot air from the cooler to go straight to the intake. This could have been avoided by using the supplied mounting straps to get it a little lower, but it would have made the hoses and fitting more challenging. I decided to pull the trigger on a K&N Cold Air Intake to get air to the motor from more places than just the OEM air tube to help with my concern. I don't think this will solve the issue completely since the engine bay is probably hotter than the air coming through the trans cooler, but I wanted it anyways for the extra 17 ponies claimed by K&N for the V10 . I haven't tested any of it yet, so I'll let you all know the outcome from a temp and power standpoint when I get it on a long, hot trip. One this is for sure...the transmission will NEVER overheat with this beast of a cooler. I also relocated the passenger side hose by clearing a path with a Dremel tool and protected the hose all the way to the hard line with spiral wrap hydraulic hose protector on Amazon. There is a tab to cut to clear the new cooler as well (see pic) that I used a multi-tool with the half-moon attachment to remove. You will also need to bend the hood release forward to clear the new cooler. I removed it and bent it carefully in a vise.

Before:

OEM Cooler

After:

Tab to cut:

Hose relocate with cut path & spiral wrap hydraulic hose protector:

[Scott]

That's great info. Thank you. And thanks especially for the photos.

What are your results so far?